The Color of Flavor

The Color of Flavor

An exploration of the relationship between color and flavor in food, using the highest quality Thai ingredients, emphasizing vibrant colors, textures, and flavors in bold, delicate balance.

Photographer: Tada Hengsapkul, film
Art: Riley Sanders, digital on acrylic on canvas
Menu: Riley Sanders & Canvas R&D team
Ceramics: ZXXG Ceramics, Bangkok

The Flavor of Color

The Flavor of Color

Ikejime fish from Surat Thani, mountain kombu, young galangal, eggfruit, hor wor, white turmeric, orange chili, jicama, bengal currant, perilla leaf

Ikejime fish from Surat Thani, mountain kombu, young galangal, eggfruit, hor wor, white turmeric, orange chili, jicama, bengal currant, perilla leaf

The fish changes daily due to seasonality and is lightly cured with mountain kombu, charred on binchotan, and presented raw. Seven individually flavored shaved ices are served, melting on the palate and collectively combining into harmonious, distinctive flavors that match the bold colors presented.

The fish changes daily due to seasonality and is lightly cured with mountain kombu, charred on binchotan, and presented raw. Seven individually flavored shaved ices are served, melting on the palate and collectively combining into harmonious, distinctive flavors that match the bold colors presented.

Caviar & Umami

Caviar & Umami

Caviar from Hua Hin, black kaffir lime, black sunchoke, black shallot, fried shallot, garcinia cowa leaf, toasted milk, riceberry, roasted yeast

Caviar from Hua Hin, black kaffir lime, black sunchoke, black shallot, fried shallot, garcinia cowa leaf, toasted milk, riceberry, roasted yeast

Color associations in food refer to specific colors that are commonly related with individual tastes. Umami is brown: the taste of maillardization, caramelization, and transformation. This is one bite of all brown components to be eaten with the hands, highlightling the depth of umami flavor achieved by precise technique focused within a narrow color range.

Color associations in food refer to specific colors that are commonly related with individual tastes. Umami is brown: the taste of maillardization, caramelization, and transformation. This is one bite of all brown components to be eaten with the hands, highlightling the depth of umami flavor achieved by precise technique focused within a narrow color range.

Cool Rainbow

Cool Rainbow

Rainbow Lobster from Phuket, elephant ear stem, marian plum umeboshi, green brazilian pepper, green jinda chili, butterfly pea flower, coconut, green mango, dill

Rainbow Lobster from Phuket, elephant ear stem, marian plum umeboshi, green brazilian pepper, green jinda chili, butterfly pea flower, coconut, green mango, dill

A cool preparation of barely cooked and lightly smoked lobster is paired with cool, fresh flavors and colors on the cool side of the color spectrum. Anthocyanins present in butterfly pea flowers react to changes in pH which result in the range of vivid, cool colors presented.

A cool preparation of barely cooked and lightly smoked lobster is paired with cool, fresh flavors and colors on the cool side of the color spectrum. Anthocyanins present in butterfly pea flowers react to changes in pH which result in the range of vivid, cool colors presented.

Duck in Chartreuse, Violet, & Vermillion

Duck in Chartreuse, Violet, & Vermillion

Barbary duck from Khao Yai, banana chili, prickly ash, garlic, purple long bean, sweet basil, yogurt, shiitake

Barbary duck from Khao Yai, banana chili, prickly ash, garlic, purple long bean, sweet basil, yogurt, shiitake

All parts of the duck are used for this bite: the breast is lightly cured and seasoned with fresh citrus and spices, the skin is roasted into crisps, the eggs are cured with fish sauce and made into an emulsion with its smoked fat, and the bones are roasted for jus. The triadic color scheme reflects the flavor of the bite itself: vibrant, contrasting, complementary.

All parts of the duck are used for this bite: the breast is lightly cured and seasoned with fresh citrus and spices, the skin is roasted into crisps, the eggs are cured with fish sauce and made into an emulsion with its smoked fat, and the bones are roasted for jus. The triadic color scheme reflects the flavor of the bite itself: vibrant, contrasting, complementary.

Venn Bread

Venn Bread

Tomme de Chiang Rai, tapioca, caramelized soy, red spur chili, watermelon seed

Tomme de Chiang Rai, tapioca, caramelized soy, red spur chili, watermelon seed

A bread based on classic choux pastry, flavored with dried spices, shaped and studded with toasted watermelon seeds. It’s baked first, then grilled and served with two butters that combine in balance on the palate and reference both flavor pairing and color mixing. The magenta butter is flavored with szechuan peppercorn, mao berry juice, black garlic juice, and indian borage. The green butter is seasoned with buttermilk powder, fresh herbs, mint, lime, and torch ginger flower.

A bread based on classic choux pastry, flavored with dried spices, shaped and studded with toasted watermelon seeds. It’s baked first, then grilled and served with two butters that combine in balance on the palate and reference both flavor pairing and color mixing. The magenta butter is flavored with szechuan peppercorn, mao berry juice, black garlic juice, and indian borage. The green butter is seasoned with buttermilk powder, fresh herbs, mint, lime, and torch ginger flower.

Marbled Marble Goby

Marbled Marble Goby

Marble Goby from Kanchanaburi, jasmine rice milk, thai celery, red jinda chili, turmeric, winter melon, daikon, dill, culantro, caramelized fish sauce

Marble Goby from Kanchanaburi, jasmine rice milk, thai celery, red jinda chili, turmeric, winter melon, daikon, dill, culantro, caramelized fish sauce

The goby is prepared in three forms: filets with puffed scales, a fried ball seasoned with aromats, and in a sauce made from its roasted bones with jasmine rice milk. In each section of the ceramic are components referencing forms of marbles, every section flavored seperately. This is a mix and match dish, the flavors will change with every bite and mirror the marbled aesthetic from the palette to the palate.

The goby is prepared in three forms: filets with puffed scales, a fried ball seasoned with aromats, and in a sauce made from its roasted bones with jasmine rice milk. In each section of the ceramic are components referencing forms of marbles, every section flavored seperately. This is a mix and match dish, the flavors will change with every bite and mirror the marbled aesthetic from the palette to the palate.

Dance of the Crayfish

Dance of the Crayfish

Crayfish from Kamphaeng Phet, brown butter, coconut flower honey vinegar, sweet shrimp paste, begonia, coriander, kaffir lime leaf, lemongrass, shallot, sweet leaf, marigold, finger lime, GranMonte Sakuna Syrah Rose

Crayfish from Kamphaeng Phet, brown butter, coconut flower honey vinegar, sweet shrimp paste, begonia, coriander, kaffir lime leaf, lemongrass, shallot, sweet leaf, marigold, finger lime, GranMonte Sakuna Syrah Rose

Inspired by the movement of the crayfish, this preparation dances on the plate visually while it’s flavor is a dance of its own. The seperate garnishes served are intended to be mixed so multiple flavors are experienced in each bite.

Inspired by the movement of the crayfish, this preparation dances on the plate visually while it’s flavor is a dance of its own. The seperate garnishes served are intended to be mixed so multiple flavors are experienced in each bite.

Blue Crab Cake

Blue Crab Cake

Blue Swimmer Crab from Krabi, clarified garlic butter, cured crab roe, galangal, ginger, green bird’s eye chili, chinese chive, crispy angel food cake, crab jelly, butterfly pea flower

Blue Swimmer Crab from Krabi, clarified garlic butter, cured crab roe, galangal, ginger, green bird’s eye chili, chinese chive, crispy angel food cake, crab jelly, butterfly pea flower

The crab is slowly steamed at 60°C for one hour, its meat warmed in butter and served on a crisped angel food cake seasoned with a paste of its cured roe. The bite is topped with a jelly made from its shells in the style of dashi, a garlic butter emulsion, and fresh chinese chives - the colors referencing the beautiful blue hues found naturally in its shells.

The crab is slowly steamed at 60°C for one hour, its meat warmed in butter and served on a crisped angel food cake seasoned with a paste of its cured roe. The bite is topped with a jelly made from its shells in the style of dashi, a garlic butter emulsion, and fresh chinese chives - the colors referencing the beautiful blue hues found naturally in its shells.

Gulf in Greyscale

Gulf in Greyscale

Fish from Surat Thani, oyster, dried scallop, squid ink, sea grape, lime, mayu, wild almond, garcinia, seablite, red jinda chili

Fish from Surat Thani, oyster, dried scallop, squid ink, sea grape, lime, mayu, wild almond, garcinia, seablite, red jinda chili

Deep flavors of the deep sea are paired with colors in greyscale - a juxtaposition of flavor and expectation. The fish changes daily and is blackened with dried herbs and spices on the grill, served with other savory seafood flavors and textures. It’s dressed with a light relish of fresh sea vegetables and finished with an emulsion of fresh oysters and dried scallops.

Deep flavors of the deep sea are paired with colors in greyscale - a juxtaposition of flavor and expectation. The fish changes daily and is blackened with dried herbs and spices on the grill, served with other savory seafood flavors and textures. It’s dressed with a light relish of fresh sea vegetables and finished with an emulsion of fresh oysters and dried scallops.

Warm Rainbow

Warm Rainbow

Rainbow Lobster from Phuket, sticky rice, shellfish stock, shellfish paste, grilled peppers, preserved calamansi, gac fruit, vietnamese coriander, yellow flowers

Rainbow Lobster from Phuket, sticky rice, shellfish stock, shellfish paste, grilled peppers, preserved calamansi, gac fruit, vietnamese coriander, yellow flowers

A second preparation of Rainbow Lobster presents another side of the flavor, color, and temperature spectrum - warmth. The shells are made into a deeply flavored stock enriched with dried shellfish. It’s served with crispy sticky rice cooked with gac fruit and shellfish, a puree made from preserved calamansi, several varieties of grilled and pickled chilies, fresh vietnamese coriander, and seasonal yellow flowers.

A second preparation of Rainbow Lobster presents another side of the flavor, color, and temperature spectrum - warmth. The shells are made into a deeply flavored stock enriched with dried shellfish. It’s served with crispy sticky rice cooked with gac fruit and shellfish, a puree made from preserved calamansi, several varieties of grilled and pickled chilies, fresh vietnamese coriander, and seasonal yellow flowers.

A Few Greens With a Lot of Flavors

A Few Greens With a Lot of Flavors

morning glory, indian borage, snake gourd, okra, asparagus, guava, cucumber, green spur chili, celtuce, bone marrow, fermented fish, seasonal herbs

morning glory, indian borage, snake gourd, okra, asparagus, guava, cucumber, green spur chili, celtuce, bone marrow, fermented fish, seasonal herbs

Multiple preparations and components of greens are presented, highlighting the diversity and abundance of flavor and texture in green vegetables and plants from all regions of Thailand. This dish is intended to be enjoyed by taking bites of several components together to ensure a variety of flavors in every bite.

Multiple preparations and components of greens are presented, highlighting the diversity and abundance of flavor and texture in green vegetables and plants from all regions of Thailand. This dish is intended to be enjoyed by taking bites of several components together to ensure a variety of flavors in every bite.

Fuchsia Fried Pigeon Leg

Fuchsia Fried Pigeon Leg

Pigeon from Kanchanaburi, pink peppercorn, karen chili, galangal, beet, red radish, honey, sumac, buttermilk

Pigeon from Kanchanaburi, pink peppercorn, karen chili, galangal, beet, red radish, honey, sumac, buttermilk

Pigeons are brined with long pepper, roasted bael fruit and other aromats, then dry-aged for 5 days. The legs are marinated in spiced buttermilk, then fried in the style of karaage. They’re served with a vividly colored dipping sauce made from pink peppercorn, garlic, and pink dragonfruit juice along with pickles of fresh vegetables.

Pigeons are brined with long pepper, roasted bael fruit and other aromats, then dry-aged for 5 days. The legs are marinated in spiced buttermilk, then fried in the style of karaage. They’re served with a vividly colored dipping sauce made from pink peppercorn, garlic, and pink dragonfruit juice along with pickles of fresh vegetables.

Pigeon Breast & Pineapple

Pigeon Breast & Pineapple

Pigeon from Kanchanaburi, Huay Mun pineapple from Uttaradit, black Phuket pineapple, long pepper, mountain pepper, nasturtium, palm sugar, charred banana leaf, tamarind

Pigeon from Kanchanaburi, Huay Mun pineapple from Uttaradit, black Phuket pineapple, long pepper, mountain pepper, nasturtium, palm sugar, charred banana leaf, tamarind

Our second preparation of pigeon is the breast, slowly cooked at 55°C, then finished on the grill, glazed with spiced pineapple juice. It’s served with pineapple in many forms and colors: pineapples slowly blackened for more than a month, caramelized overnight, and the pure flavor of fresh pineapple, matched with light spices and fresh herbs.

Our second preparation of pigeon is the breast, slowly cooked at 55°C, then finished on the grill, glazed with spiced pineapple juice. It’s served with pineapple in many forms and colors: pineapples slowly blackened for more than a month, caramelized overnight, and the pure flavor of fresh pineapple, matched with light spices and fresh herbs.

Tastes Like Neon

Tastes Like Neon

Earl’s Melon from Saraburi, turmeric, giant water bug, wasabi, kaffir lime leaf, peppermint

Earl’s Melon from Saraburi, turmeric, giant water bug, wasabi, kaffir lime leaf, peppermint

Color and flavor associations are normally connected only to the most common colors. For this presentation, we imagined how the flavor of something more abstract might taste: flourescent neon yellow. In our view, it’s brilliantly fresh, both sweet and sour, refreshing, and balanced with stimulating aromats. This serving functions as a palate cleanser and should be taken together to eat in one or two bites.

Color and flavor associations are normally connected only to the most common colors. For this presentation, we imagined how the flavor of something more abstract might taste: flourescent neon yellow. In our view, it’s brilliantly fresh, both sweet and sour, refreshing, and balanced with stimulating aromats. This serving functions as a palate cleanser and should be taken together to eat in one or two bites.

Lamb & Passion

Lamb & Passion

Milk-fed Baby Lamb from Pak Chong, beetroot, roselle, passionfruit, watermelon, jicama, prickly ash, banana chili, cumin, GranMonte Syrah

Milk-fed Baby Lamb from Pak Chong, beetroot, roselle, passionfruit, watermelon, jicama, prickly ash, banana chili, cumin, GranMonte Syrah

The color of passion is red. The lamb is grilled with red spices and prickly ash, then served with other components referencing red ingredients and flavors in differing shades and hues. This dish will change with every bite, also showcasing our passion for dynamic flavors and detailed technique. To eat, slice the lamb and dip the pieces into each of the sauces and garnishes.

The color of passion is red. The lamb is grilled with red spices and prickly ash, then served with other components referencing red ingredients and flavors in differing shades and hues. This dish will change with every bite, also showcasing our passion for dynamic flavors and detailed technique. To eat, slice the lamb and dip the pieces into each of the sauces and garnishes.

Wagyu & Nightshades

Wagyu & Nightshades

Thai Wagyu from Sakon Nakhon, potato, tomato, pepper, eggplant, gooseberry, goji berry

Thai Wagyu from Sakon Nakhon, potato, tomato, pepper, eggplant, gooseberry, goji berry

Thai Wagyu striploin is grilled over binchotan and glazed with an umami sauce made with caramelized soy and confit garlic. It’s served with several components and variations of produce from the nightshades family, all also referencing shades of the evening sky. To eat, carefully crack the veil of potato chip covering the wagyu, then mix and match bites of wagyu with the twenty seperate sauces and garnishes on the plate.

Thai Wagyu striploin is grilled over binchotan and glazed with an umami sauce made with caramelized soy and confit garlic. It’s served with several components and variations of produce from the nightshades family, all also referencing shades of the evening sky. To eat, carefully crack the veil of potato chip covering the wagyu, then mix and match bites of wagyu with the twenty seperate sauces and garnishes on the plate.

Tastes Like ?

Tastes Like ?

Nutmeg Fruit from Chumphon, 700 year old wild tea from Chiang Rai, dried coffee flowers, bael fruit jelly, GranMonte Bussaba

Nutmeg Fruit from Chumphon, 700 year old wild tea from Chiang Rai, dried coffee flowers, bael fruit jelly, GranMonte Bussaba

Our first dessert presents an edible color wheel: six sabayons made from GranMonte Bussaba, all seperately flavored and colored. The fresh nutmeg is preserved in season, made into an ice cream, and topped with a kombucha made from ancient wild tea leaves. The overall flavor of this presentation should recall something familiar to all, despite the rainbow of colors suggesting otherwise. Can you guess the intended flavor?

Our first dessert presents an edible color wheel: six sabayons made from GranMonte Bussaba, all seperately flavored and colored. The fresh nutmeg is preserved in season, made into an ice cream, and topped with a kombucha made from ancient wild tea leaves. The overall flavor of this presentation should recall something familiar to all, despite the rainbow of colors suggesting otherwise. Can you guess the intended flavor?

Purple Sticky Berry Cake

Purple Sticky Berry Cake

purple yam, sticky rice, butter, mulberry, blueberry and blackberry from Petchabun, lemon basil, plum, White Jusmina Goat Cheese from Nakhom Patom

purple yam, sticky rice, butter, mulberry, blueberry and blackberry from Petchabun, lemon basil, plum, White Jusmina Goat Cheese from Nakhom Patom

A cake made from fragrant purple yams with sticky rice flour and butter is served with fruity, berry flavors in different textures. Presented as a gradient of seperate colors, this dessert highlights unique flavors that merge together, blending fresh, fruity, floral, and herbal flavors.

A cake made from fragrant purple yams with sticky rice flour and butter is served with fruity, berry flavors in different textures. Presented as a gradient of seperate colors, this dessert highlights unique flavors that merge together, blending fresh, fruity, floral, and herbal flavors.

Neutral, Sweet, Dynamic

Neutral, Sweet, Dynamic

Bang Mot Tangerine from Thon Buri, Dark Chocolate from Chanthaburi, White Chocolate from Chiang Mai, white turmeric, job’s tear, vanilla

Bang Mot Tangerine from Thon Buri, Dark Chocolate from Chanthaburi, White Chocolate from Chiang Mai, white turmeric, job’s tear, vanilla

This dessert utilizes a neutral color range to highlight bold, balanced, sweet flavors. Thin crisps are made from steamed, dried, and fried job’s tears. Underneath the crisps are flavors of both white and dark chocolate, seasoned with candied white turmeric and tangerine. Three components of pumpkin seeds are presented: praline, ganache, and a rich sorbet with the texture of gelato, its texture attained naturally with no milk or any type of dairy.

This dessert utilizes a neutral color range to highlight bold, balanced, sweet flavors. Thin crisps are made from steamed, dried, and fried job’s tears. Underneath the crisps are flavors of both white and dark chocolate, seasoned with candied white turmeric and tangerine. Three components of pumpkin seeds are presented: praline, ganache, and a rich sorbet with the texture of gelato, its texture attained naturally with no milk or any type of dairy.

Fruit Palette

Fruit Palette

jackfruit, rose apple, durian, watermelon, mangosteen, other seasonal fruit and garnishes

jackfruit, rose apple, durian, watermelon, mangosteen, other seasonal fruit and garnishes

The final serving presents a collection of one of our favorite categories of ingredient in nine seperate forms: fruit. The fruits change seasonally depending on what’s best at any given time, reflecting our approach to and inspiration directly from the ingredients. This season: jackfruit and bee pollen, rose apple and rose, green mangosteen and jasmine, durian and bitter orange, snakefruit and cashew, semi-dehydrated watermelon, pink guava jelly, and cotton candy with dried fruit powders.

The final serving presents a collection of one of our favorite categories of ingredient in nine seperate forms: fruit. The fruits change seasonally depending on what’s best at any given time, reflecting our approach to and inspiration directly from the ingredients. This season: jackfruit and bee pollen, rose apple and rose, green mangosteen and jasmine, durian and bitter orange, snakefruit and cashew, semi-dehydrated watermelon, pink guava jelly, and cotton candy with dried fruit powders.

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